Intuition is our 2000 Tartan 3500 sailboat. We purchased in January 2011.
Friday, January 17, 2025
Friday, May 4, 2012
Head Issues
Recently we've noticed the distinct head odor in the boat. Besides being unpleasant, I find this troubling in that we are very careful about flushing and and maintaining the head. Regularly, I circulate water through the system, pump fresh water though the bowl and into the holding tank and pump overboard, and the holding tank is empty of any black water.
Still the head odor persists.
Today I decided to trace the plumbing and make sure all the fittings are clear and operational. This includes the holding-tank air vent and the anti-siphon valve. My theory is that the holding tank vent is blocked. Odorous gasses build in the plumbing and holding tank and do not have any way to vent.
From the outside, the vent is looking a bit corroded. You can't tell from this picture, but there are two 1/4" screened openings. These were pretty corroded.
Behind the cabinet in the shower area are the waste discharge vented loop and the plumbing for the holding tank vent. Here's the inside of the air vent. I disconnected the 5/8" black hose and struck a screwdriver into the vent. It felt corroded, like an old galvanized water pipe in your home.
First I tried to pump water through the fitting. I rigged up my small hand pump and pumped a few times until the pressure built. I did not feel or see any water draining to the outside. At this point I didn't realize that the vent had a small screen, to keep insects out! I went outside and attempted to blow through the fitting and it felt blocked. I was unable to blow air (yes, my mouth) through the fitting.
Then I used a water hose and rinsed the fitting. This blew quite a bit of material into the shower interior. I don't really want to know what this was, but parts of it looked like decomposed insects and small rust/gravel. Again, very similar to the corrosion from house galvanized plumbing.
After rinsing the fitting from both sides, I was able to see light through the fitting and water drained out. I believe that we have not had a vented holding tank.
To finish this somewhat unpleasant task, I decided to check the o-ring on the top of the holding tank inspection cleanout port. I haven't really wanted to do this, as the stink is overwhelming. Note, I've been wanting to check this o-ring since we had a holding tank disaster and blackwater oozed from this top port (Catalina June 2011). I assumed that the o-ring was not making a proper seal. It always puzzled me that the wastewater worked through the top port and not through the air vent. Thus, my desire to open the port and inspect the o-ring.
I quickly opened the port and covered the opening with a bucket. To my surprise, there was no smell and the o-ring looked pretty good. It was still round and flexible. I decided to lubricate the o-ring with vaseline and reassemble.
For the record, the holding tank inspection port is made by Krakor Inc., and the o-ring appears to be 3 3/8" ID and 3 3/4" OD, white rubber. I'd like to find a replacement o-ring to keep onboard.
To finish up, I pumped seawater through the system, followed by a freshwater rinse.
Hopefully, these efforts will reduce the holding tank odors from permeating inside the cabin.
Still the head odor persists.
Today I decided to trace the plumbing and make sure all the fittings are clear and operational. This includes the holding-tank air vent and the anti-siphon valve. My theory is that the holding tank vent is blocked. Odorous gasses build in the plumbing and holding tank and do not have any way to vent.
From the outside, the vent is looking a bit corroded. You can't tell from this picture, but there are two 1/4" screened openings. These were pretty corroded.
Behind the cabinet in the shower area are the waste discharge vented loop and the plumbing for the holding tank vent. Here's the inside of the air vent. I disconnected the 5/8" black hose and struck a screwdriver into the vent. It felt corroded, like an old galvanized water pipe in your home.
First I tried to pump water through the fitting. I rigged up my small hand pump and pumped a few times until the pressure built. I did not feel or see any water draining to the outside. At this point I didn't realize that the vent had a small screen, to keep insects out! I went outside and attempted to blow through the fitting and it felt blocked. I was unable to blow air (yes, my mouth) through the fitting.
Then I used a water hose and rinsed the fitting. This blew quite a bit of material into the shower interior. I don't really want to know what this was, but parts of it looked like decomposed insects and small rust/gravel. Again, very similar to the corrosion from house galvanized plumbing.
After rinsing the fitting from both sides, I was able to see light through the fitting and water drained out. I believe that we have not had a vented holding tank.
To finish this somewhat unpleasant task, I decided to check the o-ring on the top of the holding tank inspection cleanout port. I haven't really wanted to do this, as the stink is overwhelming. Note, I've been wanting to check this o-ring since we had a holding tank disaster and blackwater oozed from this top port (Catalina June 2011). I assumed that the o-ring was not making a proper seal. It always puzzled me that the wastewater worked through the top port and not through the air vent. Thus, my desire to open the port and inspect the o-ring.
I quickly opened the port and covered the opening with a bucket. To my surprise, there was no smell and the o-ring looked pretty good. It was still round and flexible. I decided to lubricate the o-ring with vaseline and reassemble.
For the record, the holding tank inspection port is made by Krakor Inc., and the o-ring appears to be 3 3/8" ID and 3 3/4" OD, white rubber. I'd like to find a replacement o-ring to keep onboard.
To finish up, I pumped seawater through the system, followed by a freshwater rinse.
Hopefully, these efforts will reduce the holding tank odors from permeating inside the cabin.
Thursday, May 3, 2012
Preventer, boom brake
Since purchasing our T3500, I've been thinking about ways to rig a full spinnaker. This was reinforced by last year's Baja Haha, where we set the full spinnaker and sailed most of the way to Cabo. Boats without spinnaker ended up motoring most of the way.
In talking with several folks, the general concensous is that it will be difficult (if not expensive) to rig a spinnaker pole. A key showstopper is the radar dome mounted 1/2 way up the mast. This alone makes it difficult to run a topping lift, without interfering with the radar. Other considerations, though easier to resolve are the fact that we don't have winches, camcleats or ways to easily run topping lift and foreguy back to the cockpit.
The other day, a friend emailed me a picture of their wing-and-wing cruise back from Avalon:
Notice the preveter (green line aft of the vang).
This got me thinking about ways to rig our boat for more comfortable and safer down-wind sailing. We've learned that in light-wind and mid-size swell, the boom has tendency to swing. This is further pronounced when sailing deeper or by the lee, especially with wing-and-wing.
One of the things we used when sailing to Cabo was a 3-1 block and tackle arrangement.
This was shackled aft of the boom vang and to a padeye on the toerail track.
Variations on this are to use a block and lead the line aft to the cockpit, and secure with a camclet or to use a boom-brake.
I started researching options for boom-brakes. One consideration is the Wichard Gyb'n Easy, at ~$250
Variation using a climber's descender 8 or rescue 8, at ~$40
Both use the wraps on the line to accomplish the same thing - to slow the rate at which the boom travels across during a gybe. Claims are that the Wichard device can be adjusted by looping the line through the various rings; likewise, the tension can be adjusted by additional wraps through the descender 8. At the cost difference, I see no reason to purchase the Wichard.
I also looked at mechanical brakes, such as the Dutchman.
What this really came down to is for these devices to be effective, you need to be able to easily adjust the tension. Wichard recommends a set of blocks set at the chainplates with the line running aft to a winch and cleats. For our Tartan 3500, this is a fair amount of work (and cost) to setup. An alternative is to run a single line to the boom and attach the Wichard to the line. Adjusting the line tensions the control line.
Picture 2 control lines coming down to blocks near the chainplates or midship deck cleats. These lines then run back to the cockpit. Alternately, picture the single line being lead forward along the boom to the mast, down to the deck and back to the cockpit. I have at least 2 if not 3 lines to rig. Now picture trying to get to the foredeck and having to scramble over all this rigging.
For coastal cruising (and our eventual trip to Baja), I don't really want a boom-brake, with the options for controlling the tension,and thus the rate at which the boom gybes across. I don't have a problem gybing and our boom is just tall-enough to not hurt a 6' person standing in the cockpit. After considering all this, there's no guarantee that we'd actually use this or whether it would work as an effective preventer. Note, the climber's rescue 8 has ears that can be used to lock down the line. There's no doubt that a sufficient knot could be used to make a secure preventer.
What I really wanted was a preventer that is easy to setup and use. I found the block and tackle, used when sailing to Baja, was simple, easy to use and cost effective. Now to find a block and tackle arrangement, 3/8" line, cam-cleat with snap-shackles, rated at about SWL 1000lbs.
I started looking at various blocks, camcleats, snap-shackles..... and realized this could easily cost several hundred dollars for a simple 3-1 or 4-1 preventer. I spent about an hour at West Marine looking at their blocks. I found what might have worked - a Ronstan single block with snap-shackle and a fiddle block with camcleat and becket. These were on the sale shelf and I thought pretty reasonably priced - at about $150 I could have made the preventer. The problem was the block didn't have a becket and the fiddle block didn't have a snap-shackle. This meant I couldn't effectively use the fiddle for 3-1 purchase. I didn't see an easy way to swap the snap-shackle. I didn't really want to mess around with this and not have a well designed block and tackle. I put the blocks back.
I went to the boat and looked at ways to rig the Wichard boom-brake. Everything I tried just didn't look or feel right. This was telling me something. I then tried various runs of line to the mid-ship deck cleat or to the padeye on the toerail. This felt right, but does require leaving the cockpit to free when gybing.
This morning, I looked through the various catalogs, both paper and online. I found it very hard to picture the size of the block from the catalogs. For example, the Harken Cabo blocks look sweet; however, you have to look at their SWL and linesize to get an idea of the proper block. I was thinking I'd need to spendm ore time at West Marine before making this device. Besides, Harken blocks are very expensive. The snap-shackles are add-ons that easily cost an additional $100.
One consideration is the SWL of the preventer. It is recommended that a weak-link is installed to prevent breaking hardware or damaging the boom. One suggestion was to use a small shackle, which will break before the line or blocks. Another suggestion is to make a loop of 4-6 wraps of small diameter line. I recall reading that this line has a breaking point of 60lbs and 6 wraps would be around 360lbs. I think this was the same article that suggested 1000lbs SWL for the blocks, though I can't find this reference. Anyway, with a small shackle or 350lbs breaking point, I don't need Harken midrange blocks!
Effectively this is a boom-vang with snap-shackles. This lead to my looking on eBay for a set of blocks or a boom vang. I found a few used items, including a Shaefer boom vang with snap-shackles for $195 with shipping, closing today. I thought seriously about this, but wasn't really sure it's condition or age.
I kept looking at eBay for variations on "fiddle, snap shackle, cam cleat" or "block becket", etc. Surprisingly, I came across a West Marine "Medium Boom Vang, 10' Length, 4:1 Purchase, 40' 3/8" line, with a Buy-Now at $115.
This is made up of Ronstan Series 50 fiddle blocks, around $100 each, 40' 3/8 New England Lines doublebraid at $40 and sells for $319 at West Marine. This is perfect and a steal at $115! I ordered 2.
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
Replace Honda BZBF Extension Tube
As mentioned from our purchase of the dinghy and outboard, from Craig's List - Dingly , I found what I thought was a clean Honda 2HP outboard. Much to my surprise and disappointment, one of the lugs connecting the extension tube to the frame and motor was cracked.
I purchased an extension tube kit. After studying the repair manuals, I decided it was time to replace the unit.
First remove the start coil mechanism
Remove the fuel tank. The challenge here was draining the fuel tank. I did manage to pour a pint of fuel into a glass jar. The fuel tank is held in place by 2 nuts.
x
x
Once the fuel tank is removed, the fuel line and filter,
On the front is the electrical connection - disconnect
Disconnect the spark-plug and remove,
Disconnect the choke and throttle,
Throttle,
Remove the air flow cover,
Disconnect the ground,
Disconnect exhaust and shield
Lift out the engine - clutch assembly
Exhaust tube and shield
Throttle mechanism
Engine
Remove the base, showing broken extension tube,
New base!
Starting reassembly,
Things were going too smoothly. I had difficulty taking the lower unit off of the extension tube. What I discovered is the lower gear assembly is held in place by 2 screws through small studs. These are approximately 1/4" long by 1/4" wide that sit between the extension tube and lower gear assembly with the bolts holding the 2 parts together. One of these was corroded and difficult to remove.
I was hoping to save and reuse these studs; however, after trying to remove, I ended up destroying one. After a futile effort of finding a similar part locally, I gave up and decided to order replacements.
I very much wanted to complete this project. I called a couple of local Honda outboard shops and was told that they'd have to order the part and it would be a couple of weeks. I was surprised by this - the small extension bushings that I thought would be common item. I expected the lower bushing to be ordered. Let's get real here, this is Los Angeles - these parts should have been available in a couple of days......
Since I couldn't put the motor back together, I decided to walk through reassembly, so I wouldn't forget the sequence or order in which this came apart. When inserting the exhaust tube through the bushing, I expected this to seat more firmly. To me, it seemed very loose. After a few minutes of thought, I decided that since I had to purchase the new studs, I'd buy a new bushing too.
Anyway, I ordered the parts from one of the many online Honda parts sites. The replacement parts arrived in about a week. I couldn't wait to put this back together!
Lower unit
Bushing - I was pleased when the exhaust tube fit more snugly.
Reassembly took a little over an hour. I had a couple of problems, mostly due to this sitting for over a week. The first was I left one of the small studs in the clutch unit. I set the new studs in the extension tube and tried to fit the clutch unit together - it just wouldn't fit. After a few failed attempts to screw together, I took apart and removed the remaining stud. Note, it takes 3 hands to fit the lower case and clutch assembly together. You have to rotate the clutch into the base around the opening for the handle and exhaust. The other problem was I couldn't find the metal hold-down clamp for the throttle cable. I connected the handle and throttle cable with the clamp by the throttle spring. When testing the throttle, there was excessive play in the cable and not enough movement at the carburetor. The schematic showed a clamp by the carburetor - I just couldn't find it. To my surprise, this was on the outside of the fan cover. I had put the throttle cable together before setting the cover. My last problem was the two castle nuts holding the fuel tank - one started to spin. I'm not sure if these are torqued into the base or glued in. I was able to sufficiently tighten the nut
Replace carburetor bowl - probably due to ethanol in the gas, the carburetor bowl and drain screw were corroded. The previous owner attempted to remove the screw, stripping the head. With ethanol in the gas, it is necessary to drain the unused fuel from the carburetor after use.
I was able to setup a test bed, with 10 gallon bucket of water. Adding 1/4" cup fuel, checking oil level... to my delight, the outboard started right up!!! I had fun gearing up the throttle, clutch and splashing water everywhere.
In conclusion, replacing the extension tube requires a complete disassembly of the outboard. I still believe that it would be possible to remove the extension tube without removing the engine; however, it may be very difficult to position both the drive shaft and exhaust tube through the extension tube and into the lower bushing.
Things were going too smoothly. I had difficulty taking the lower unit off of the extension tube. What I discovered is the lower gear assembly is held in place by 2 screws through small studs. These are approximately 1/4" long by 1/4" wide that sit between the extension tube and lower gear assembly with the bolts holding the 2 parts together. One of these was corroded and difficult to remove.
I was hoping to save and reuse these studs; however, after trying to remove, I ended up destroying one. After a futile effort of finding a similar part locally, I gave up and decided to order replacements.
I very much wanted to complete this project. I called a couple of local Honda outboard shops and was told that they'd have to order the part and it would be a couple of weeks. I was surprised by this - the small extension bushings that I thought would be common item. I expected the lower bushing to be ordered. Let's get real here, this is Los Angeles - these parts should have been available in a couple of days......
Since I couldn't put the motor back together, I decided to walk through reassembly, so I wouldn't forget the sequence or order in which this came apart. When inserting the exhaust tube through the bushing, I expected this to seat more firmly. To me, it seemed very loose. After a few minutes of thought, I decided that since I had to purchase the new studs, I'd buy a new bushing too.
Anyway, I ordered the parts from one of the many online Honda parts sites. The replacement parts arrived in about a week. I couldn't wait to put this back together!
Lower unit
Bushing - I was pleased when the exhaust tube fit more snugly.
Reassembly took a little over an hour. I had a couple of problems, mostly due to this sitting for over a week. The first was I left one of the small studs in the clutch unit. I set the new studs in the extension tube and tried to fit the clutch unit together - it just wouldn't fit. After a few failed attempts to screw together, I took apart and removed the remaining stud. Note, it takes 3 hands to fit the lower case and clutch assembly together. You have to rotate the clutch into the base around the opening for the handle and exhaust. The other problem was I couldn't find the metal hold-down clamp for the throttle cable. I connected the handle and throttle cable with the clamp by the throttle spring. When testing the throttle, there was excessive play in the cable and not enough movement at the carburetor. The schematic showed a clamp by the carburetor - I just couldn't find it. To my surprise, this was on the outside of the fan cover. I had put the throttle cable together before setting the cover. My last problem was the two castle nuts holding the fuel tank - one started to spin. I'm not sure if these are torqued into the base or glued in. I was able to sufficiently tighten the nut
Replace carburetor bowl - probably due to ethanol in the gas, the carburetor bowl and drain screw were corroded. The previous owner attempted to remove the screw, stripping the head. With ethanol in the gas, it is necessary to drain the unused fuel from the carburetor after use.
I was able to setup a test bed, with 10 gallon bucket of water. Adding 1/4" cup fuel, checking oil level... to my delight, the outboard started right up!!! I had fun gearing up the throttle, clutch and splashing water everywhere.
In conclusion, replacing the extension tube requires a complete disassembly of the outboard. I still believe that it would be possible to remove the extension tube without removing the engine; however, it may be very difficult to position both the drive shaft and exhaust tube through the extension tube and into the lower bushing.
Friday, March 23, 2012
Major milestone
We've been planning on an extended weekend trip to Catalina. In preparation for this, I took the boat to the fuel dock for a few gallons of fuel. It was a gorgeous day, I'd already removed the canvas and it was too early to return to the dock. I thought, let's go sailing! The major milestone was that I was alone.
It probably has been over 12 years since I've been on a boat alone. The last time was when I was with Fairwind Yacht Club, sailing a Capri 14! That was a long time ago.
Wind was 13 knots from the NW, seas calm, clear and sunny. Couldn't have asked for a nicer day - perfect.
Here's a picture of Santa Monica Pier
The wind was more northerly than usual, so making the bell buoy was a challenge. There was weird current and wind effect south of the pier. I had to tack 3 or times to get to the bell buoy.
The Santa Monica Bell Buoy.
Yup, me sailing the boat.
The return trip.
I had trouble raising the main. The lazyjacks interfere with the battens and the sail slides bind. The autopilot worked today, which surprised me. Dropping and flaking the sail is very difficult in the channel. I tried, but gave up, thinking it would be better to flake at the dock. The Tartan 3500 handles so wonderfully, I felt comfortable sailing the boat alone.
Overall a wonderful day!
Thursday, March 1, 2012
Cup holders
As silly as this sounds, our boat only has a single cup-holder in the cockpit. This is a problem when my wife and I sail together or we have friends onboard. What usually happens is drinks are left on the seat or floor and usually spill.
We wanted to find a matching cup-holder. This turned out to be harder than it seems. The single cup-holder is a unique design that snaps on the binnacle rail. There are several cup-holders; however, we wanted one to match what's already on the boat.
After looking at West Marine, eBay, and other online suppliers of this, we found the actual manufacturer of this product. Snapit Products. I can't say this is the best cup-holder made; however, for our purposes it suits us perfectly.
We decided to go with the double cup-holder. This allows a couple of drinks and a pair of binoculars.
So we moved the single to the side with the throttle.
We wanted to find a matching cup-holder. This turned out to be harder than it seems. The single cup-holder is a unique design that snaps on the binnacle rail. There are several cup-holders; however, we wanted one to match what's already on the boat.
After looking at West Marine, eBay, and other online suppliers of this, we found the actual manufacturer of this product. Snapit Products. I can't say this is the best cup-holder made; however, for our purposes it suits us perfectly.
We decided to go with the double cup-holder. This allows a couple of drinks and a pair of binoculars.
So we moved the single to the side with the throttle.
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Maintenance Schedule
Draft - work in progress!
Engine | |
| Check oil level and look for leaks | Each use |
| Check oil pressure, when runnning, at 45psi | Each use |
| Check temperature above 170 and below 190 | Each use |
| Change primary oil & oil filters | Annual or 100 hours |
| Change transmission oil & filter(?) | ? |
| Check belts & hoses; replace if worn | Monthly |
| Check coolant levels | Each use |
| Check sea-water strainer | Each use |
| Check engine zincs, motor mounts | Annual |
| Check exhaust system for leaks | Annual |
| Check exhaust mixer for corrosion | Annual |
| Check alternator & water pump belts and tension | Annual |
| Change water pump impeller | Annual |
| Inspect stuffing box, repack / PSS | Annual |
| Inspect cutlass bearing on shaft & rudder | Annual |
| Check prop/shaft | Annual |
| Check throttle and transmission mechanism and cables, lubricate as necessary | Annual |
Fuel System | |
| Check fuel level | Each use |
| Check for leaks | Monthly |
| Change primary and/or secondary fuel filters | Annual or 100 hours |
| Check for moisture or sediment | Monthly |
| Check tanks, hoses, fittings for corrosion | Annual |
| Inspect air vent | Annual |
Electrical | |
| Check "at rest" battery voltage is 12.1 to 12.8 volts | Each use |
| Check alternator/regulator charging voltage: bluk at 14.5 volts, float at 13.5 volts | Monthly |
| Check charger charging voltage: bluk at 14.5 volts, float at 13.5 volts | Monthly |
| Check galvonic isolater, ground continuity | Annual |
| Check batteries’ condition & connections | Annual |
| Check battery water level | Monthly |
| Check connections to batteries & main distribution panel | Annual |
| Check all wiring & connections; look for worn, pinched or frayed wiring & replace | Annual |
| Distribution panel should be opened, connections inspected & cleaned | Annual |
| Inspect shore electric cable for evidence of resistance or corrosion | Annual |
Standing Rigging | |
| Inspect standing rigging, turnbuckles, cotterpins | Daily |
| Inspect wire for corrosion, meathooks | Monthly |
| Inspect mast, boom, gooseneck for corrosion, loose hardware, | Monthly |
Running Rigging | |
| Inspect blocks, camcleats, jamcleats, shackles, lubricate | Annual |
| Inspect all lines for frayed or worn areas | Annual |
| Check and service winches | Annual |
| Check lifelines, tension, 'O-cotterpins' | |
Sails | |
| Inspect for worn or frayed areas; repair | Annual |
| Wash sails to remove salt and other debris | Annual |
| Check leech/luff tension controls | Annual |
Steering | |
| Inspect steering quadrant, cables, binnacle | Monthly |
| Check rudder post and mechanical elements for corrosion or wear | Annual |
Hull, Dodger, Bimini | |
| Inspect all thru-hull hoses for dry rot & leaks | Annual |
| Exercise thru-hulls | Monthly |
| Inspect bonding systems for corrosion | |
| Examine or replace all zincs on hull, shaft etc. | Monthly |
| Clean and/or paint bottom | 5 Years |
| Inspect deck fittings, hardware, lights, doors, windows, cleats,& handrails, etc; reseal, re-bed or refasten if loose or leaking | Annual |
| Check for broken or loose fittings, screws, shackles are secure and tightly fitted | Annual |
| Wax topsides gelcoat | Annual |
| Awlcare awlgrip/paint | Annual |
| Inspect dodger/bimini frame | Annual |
| Clean canvas | Monthly |
| Repair/redo varnish | 6 Months |
Electrical Equipment | |
| Test VHF radio | Monthly |
| Test Chartplotter, GPS | Each use |
| Test Autohelm | Each use |
| Test Wind, Speed, Depth | Each use |
| Test HF/Ham/Marine SSB Radio | Annual |
Head | |
| Fresh water flush | Weekly/Monthly |
| Inspect air vent | Annual |
Safety Equipment | |
| Check fire extinguishers and recharge/replace if necessary | Annual |
| Check flares, expiration date and replace as necessary | Annual |
| Check number, size and condition of life preservers | Annual |
| Check boat hook | Each use |
| Check throwable PFD, lifering, or lifesling | Each use |
| Check bilge/sump pumps and pump saver filters, clean as necessary | Each use |
| Check navigation lights | Monthly |
| Check LPG solenoid and shutoff sensor | Monthly |
Other Equipment | |
| Inspect, clean and lubricate windlass | Annual |
| Inspect anchor chain, chain to line splice, swivel | Annual |
| Inspect, clean and lubricate roller-furling mechanism | Annual |
| Check water heater and pressure relief valve for signs of leaks | Annual |
| Check stove ignitor 1.5 volt battery | Annual |
| Remove dust from the refrigerator compressor | Annual |
| Inspect, clean potable water tanks | Annual |
| Inspect, clean and lubricate portlights and gaskets | Annual |
Sunday, February 19, 2012
Anchor Locker
After discovering the center divider was rotted out and the plywood bits were blocking the drains, one of the things I've wanted to do was to add "Dry-Deck" to the bottom of the anchor locker. This keeps the anchor rode off the bottom of the anchor locker and hopefully allow the locker to drain more easily.
I'm not sure if this matters, but it might keep the anchor locker dryer!
I'm not sure if this matters, but it might keep the anchor locker dryer!
Dinghy
My wife and I have this difference of opinion. My friend has a perfectly fine Avon dinghy that we are free to use. To be honest, this dinghy is a pain in the ass - it has wood floorboards with plastic clips holding the boards together and along the side rails. To me, it is very difficult to assemble, takes about an hour, and usually scrapes the skin off you knuckles. Additionally, the motor died a few years ago and parts are no longer available. As such, this dinghy requires paddling with oars. To me, good exercise. To my wife, she sees all the other dinghy's with big expensive outboards zipping around and wants such a beast.
While sailing with our new friends, Debby and Fraser, who just purchased a sister Tartan 3500, Debby mentioned that their broker had a dinghy and outboard for around $1,000. This piqued my wife's interest and we are now in the process of researching and buying a dinghy and outboard. So much for repairing the haunted autohelm....
Here are a few pictures of the dinghy and outboard. There are several problems with this deal. First, the owner has the title and he's between Washington(?) and Mexico. I need the title to register the dinghy. The dinghy doesn't have oars, pump, and seat. The motor doesn't have fuel tank and fuel-hose. I figure these items alone cost around $300. Finally, the dinghy and motor are in San Diego. It is somewhat of a leap of faith to purchase this without personally verifying the dinghy and outboard. However, for the right price, I'm willing to take a chance.
From what I can tell, this is a West Marine, 2006, Zodiac dinghy, model RU 310 HP. The 310 indicates the size and is consistent with current model dinghys. The HP indicates high-pressure floor. I don't know what the RU means. Per the West Marine 2006 catalog, this dinghy is 10'2" x 4'11", 16" tubes. It stores down to 38"x20"x13". West Marine part number 6774699, manufacturer part number Z24015.
I went to West Marine to scope out their 2006 catalog, current model dinghy's, oars, oarlocks, seats,.... Not much has changed in 6 years! I think dinghy is Zodiac 310 HP.
The dinghy does not have a oars or seat. I wanted to see what is involved in adding oars, oarlocks and seat to this dinghy. This dinghy appears to have a quick release oarlock mechanism and West Marine sells the proper oarlocks.
These look like a standard 5/16" or 3/8" shaft
New seats have an interesting attachment. There appears to be a raised dowel in which the seat snaps into.
Included in the deal is a Yamaha 8 HP motor. I'm concerned that this motor is too large to physically man-handle on/off the boat. We'll need to see once we take possession.
There are mixed opinions on what size motor for an outboard. One one hand, the motor has to be physically handled - moved from car/locker to boat, mounted on the dinghy. The Yamaha 8HP 4 stroke weighs in at around 100lbs. Some sort of boom lift, davits or crane will be necessary. Imagine swinging 100lbs of weight off of the end of the boom in a rocking sea? I can just see the damage to the hull.....:( Towards this, people suggest the lightest motor that can physically be managed.
The smallest of the motors is the Honda 2HP 4 stroke, air cooled. This motor weighs only 27lbs. This is something we could easily handle.
The other side of the debate is to get the largest motor the dinghy can handle. When there's wind or current, the horsepower will be needed.
Once again, I'm undecided as to what to do: keep the 8HP, trade for a smaller 4HP motor or the Honda 2HP. The Honda appears to be a very nice motor and will be perfect for ferrying back and forth from the boat. It won't be good for trucking from Avalon to the Isthmus!
Where do we stand on this - we are still waiting for the owner to agree and send the title. Without title, we can not register the dinghy and it has no value.
*** 3/27/2012 ***
10 minutes in CA/Pasadena DMV! Having received the title, I scheduled an appointment at the Pasadena DMV for 8:30 on Tuesday 3/27. I figured Tuesday early morning would miss the weekend rush. Never did I expect that I'd be in and out in less than 10 minutes!
I showed up around 8:20. Checked in at the appointment line. The agent had me complete the back of the title, to transfer. Had I known this, I could have done this earlier and avoided having to wait a second time (couple of minutes, though). He handed me the title with a number and told me to wait for my number. Before I could even get to the chairs, my number was called.
Handed over the title, agent entered information into the computer and asked for $76, of which $10 is for penalty for the previous owner not registering the dinghy. Oh well. It took a few minutes for the agent to obtain the CA boat registration '2013' stickers. The only holdup was correcting the spelling of my name and reprinting the temporary title.
I even got to keep the same CF numbers, which are painted on the front of the dinghy. The next step is to figure how to mount the registration stickers on the dinghy. I'm thinking some sort of square pocket on the side. Note, registration boards are no-longer legal - the CF number and registration must be permanently affixed to the dinghy. Yet another project!
While sailing with our new friends, Debby and Fraser, who just purchased a sister Tartan 3500, Debby mentioned that their broker had a dinghy and outboard for around $1,000. This piqued my wife's interest and we are now in the process of researching and buying a dinghy and outboard. So much for repairing the haunted autohelm....
Here are a few pictures of the dinghy and outboard. There are several problems with this deal. First, the owner has the title and he's between Washington(?) and Mexico. I need the title to register the dinghy. The dinghy doesn't have oars, pump, and seat. The motor doesn't have fuel tank and fuel-hose. I figure these items alone cost around $300. Finally, the dinghy and motor are in San Diego. It is somewhat of a leap of faith to purchase this without personally verifying the dinghy and outboard. However, for the right price, I'm willing to take a chance.
From what I can tell, this is a West Marine, 2006, Zodiac dinghy, model RU 310 HP. The 310 indicates the size and is consistent with current model dinghys. The HP indicates high-pressure floor. I don't know what the RU means. Per the West Marine 2006 catalog, this dinghy is 10'2" x 4'11", 16" tubes. It stores down to 38"x20"x13". West Marine part number 6774699, manufacturer part number Z24015.
I went to West Marine to scope out their 2006 catalog, current model dinghy's, oars, oarlocks, seats,.... Not much has changed in 6 years! I think dinghy is Zodiac 310 HP.
The dinghy does not have a oars or seat. I wanted to see what is involved in adding oars, oarlocks and seat to this dinghy. This dinghy appears to have a quick release oarlock mechanism and West Marine sells the proper oarlocks.
These look like a standard 5/16" or 3/8" shaft
New seats have an interesting attachment. There appears to be a raised dowel in which the seat snaps into.
Included in the deal is a Yamaha 8 HP motor. I'm concerned that this motor is too large to physically man-handle on/off the boat. We'll need to see once we take possession.
There are mixed opinions on what size motor for an outboard. One one hand, the motor has to be physically handled - moved from car/locker to boat, mounted on the dinghy. The Yamaha 8HP 4 stroke weighs in at around 100lbs. Some sort of boom lift, davits or crane will be necessary. Imagine swinging 100lbs of weight off of the end of the boom in a rocking sea? I can just see the damage to the hull.....:( Towards this, people suggest the lightest motor that can physically be managed.
The smallest of the motors is the Honda 2HP 4 stroke, air cooled. This motor weighs only 27lbs. This is something we could easily handle.
The other side of the debate is to get the largest motor the dinghy can handle. When there's wind or current, the horsepower will be needed.
Once again, I'm undecided as to what to do: keep the 8HP, trade for a smaller 4HP motor or the Honda 2HP. The Honda appears to be a very nice motor and will be perfect for ferrying back and forth from the boat. It won't be good for trucking from Avalon to the Isthmus!
Where do we stand on this - we are still waiting for the owner to agree and send the title. Without title, we can not register the dinghy and it has no value.
*** 2/22/2012 ***
Update - it looks like the deal is going to go through and we should pickup tomorrow afternoon. Now we need to start by finding an air pump and oars. Since this is a high-pressure inflatable floor dinghy, we need a high-pressure pump, capable of at least 10psi.
***2/??/2012 ***
I found a 2006 Honda 2HP outboard in good condition. I purchased this, so we now have a smaller outboard for use with the dinghy. When buying the motor, I noticed that the carburetor drain was corroded and the screw-head stripped. I believe the ethanol in the fuel turns to water and caused the corrosion. It looks like the previous owner left fuel in the carburetor at one point or another. I was able to order a replacement carburetor bowl for $35. I also ordered a spare spark plug and a set of paper gaskets.
In trying to determine the proper part for the carburetor bowl, I noticed a crack in the bottom extension tube mount. I ran the motor over to the Honda dealer in the valley to discuss my options. He wanted $225 for the part and $350 to replace. I was depressed. No longer was this a deal and in fact, would cost more than a new motor. I decided to see if there were any problems with the outboard, use for a year or so and either repair or sell. I am curious how this happened - probably their dinghy turned sideways in the surf and rammed the outboard into the shore at an angle.
*** 3/21/2012 ***
It looks like the owner found the title and is in the mail to us. That allows us to register the dinghy with the DMV. That should be fun.
*** 3/23/2012 ***
I've been researching how to repair the extension tube on the outboard. I found an online source that has the full replacement extension tube and includes the bottom motor assembly, tilt/lock mechanism and other parts for $175. I went ahead and ordered this so I can rebuild the outboard in my leisure. When replacing the extension tube, I'll also replace the carburetor bowl. Now, let's hope I can remove the 4 rusted bolts from the bottom of the motor.
*** 3/27/2012 ***
10 minutes in CA/Pasadena DMV! Having received the title, I scheduled an appointment at the Pasadena DMV for 8:30 on Tuesday 3/27. I figured Tuesday early morning would miss the weekend rush. Never did I expect that I'd be in and out in less than 10 minutes!
I showed up around 8:20. Checked in at the appointment line. The agent had me complete the back of the title, to transfer. Had I known this, I could have done this earlier and avoided having to wait a second time (couple of minutes, though). He handed me the title with a number and told me to wait for my number. Before I could even get to the chairs, my number was called.
Handed over the title, agent entered information into the computer and asked for $76, of which $10 is for penalty for the previous owner not registering the dinghy. Oh well. It took a few minutes for the agent to obtain the CA boat registration '2013' stickers. The only holdup was correcting the spelling of my name and reprinting the temporary title.
I even got to keep the same CF numbers, which are painted on the front of the dinghy. The next step is to figure how to mount the registration stickers on the dinghy. I'm thinking some sort of square pocket on the side. Note, registration boards are no-longer legal - the CF number and registration must be permanently affixed to the dinghy. Yet another project!
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